My Sasha Trousers Debut and a Closet Case Patterns Hat-Trick

Sasha Trousers, Kalle Shirt, Clare Coat, Closet Case Patterns, Vancouver Sewing Blog

Why….hello, hello.

Recently….while out for dinner…I noticed I was wearing Closet Case Patterns from tip to toe…and yes…I had me a bit of a fan-girl moment. Clearly, Heather’s design aesthetic resonates with me.

Many of you are, no doubt, already familiar with Closet Case Patterns November pattern release….the Sasha Trousers. In her Meet Our Latest Pants Pattern blog post, Heather describes them as her desert island pants. Yes, those pants…the ones with a perfectly dreamy fit and a silhouette that works well in both casual and dressier fabrications.

It’s no secret, I’ve been on a pants making tear these past months.  Cropped. Wide legged. High waisted. Stretch. Non stretch….I’ve been eagerly sewing them all. It was kismet really when the invite to pattern test the Sasha Trousers rolled in. This was a silhouette missing from my arsenal. Slim fitting, classic and chic. Sign me up please and thank you.

There were some minor edits made to the pattern after completion of the first pair…a noticeable change being the design of the front pockets. That being said, my first iteration fit me well and I wear them a lot. You’re viewing them today. I’m also modelling my first long sleeved version of the Kalle Shirt pattern. And, inspired by my evening out,  I’ve included a shot with my Velvet Bow Clare Coat. It’s my Closet Case Patterns Hat-Trick!

Fact: Photographing solid navy blue trousers is a) all good and b) impossible to highlight design details. Please check out Close Case Patterns introductory post to see the deets.

Sasha Trousers, Kalle Shirt, Clare Coat, Closet Case Patterns, Vancouver Sewing Blog

The Sasha trousers come in two lengths. I opted for the cropped version. I love this length…I think it works with high heels, flats and booties. The pattern is designed for low stretch fabrics which really adds to the comfort aspect. For this pair, I used fabric left over from my Alyse Wide Legged Pants.

Sasha Trousers, Kalle Shirt, Clare Coat, Closet Case Patterns, Vancouver Sewing Blog

 

Sasha Trousers, Kalle Shirt, Clare Coat, Closet Case Patterns, Vancouver Sewing Blog

The Kalle Shirt Dress sleeve expansion is sold separately from the pattern. I’ll tell ya…drafting sleeves can be fiddly at the best of times and I, for one, was pretty happy to see it offered as an add-on.

Now…I do want to point this out to those that care…the sleeve of the shirt has been drafted to fit the original pattern. Typically, set in sleeves align with the body’s shoulders and are a complex marriage of convex and concave curves. The Kalle however, has a lovely dropped shoulder silhouette….and no curves to work with at all.  I haven’t had any issues with range of arm movement…but I would be hesitant about making a cropped Kalle with long sleeves. And those drag lines? I think they are inevitable with an extended shoulder.

One thing that does puzzle me is that I feel like the shoulder seam wants to shift slightly backwards.  It’s not much…these photos don’t reveal anything. But. It just feels a little off. I’m blaming the FBA I had to do but on my next make I think I will carve the back neckline out a little deeper {and draft the collar a little bigger to fit}. Do you think that would help?

Sasha Trousers, Kalle Shirt, Clare Coat, Closet Case Patterns, Vancouver Sewing Blog

Oh yeah…I’m a rock star. I got brave and did a teeny high/low hem on my Kalle shirt. I’m not usually a fan of the look but I think it’s essential for the menswear vibe I was going for. I’m also loving that extra wide cuffed sleeve. It’s a bit lot like a tuxedo shirt. I like the versatility this cuff provides: I have the option of folding back the cuff for a more feminine 7/8 sleeve.

Sasha Trousers, Kalle Shirt, Clare Coat, Closet Case Patterns, Vancouver Sewing Blog

And my Velvet Bow Clare Coat? It’s been tweaked ever so slightly since I blogged about it here. Just two wears in and I knew the sleeve cuffs were too frilly….but…I had zero leftover fabric. I ended up removing the cuffs, easing out as much extra volume as I could, and then reattaching them. I love them so much better….but, um…but when I look at the original photos, I do think that my frilly cuffs were cute…

 

*My Picmonkey Free Editor doesn’t seem to be free anymore so I need to find a new option for my collages. In the meantime, I hope these images above look okay. I can only imagine the mess this will be in my emailed version….sorry in advance subscribers. Okay…left to right we have…me demonstrating the fabulous comfort of stretch trousers, inside detail of welt pocket and waistband stay, back welt pocket and sleeve cuff with pearl button.

Whew…chatting about two new makes in one post and technical glitches with photo collages. I think I need a nap.

Wearing : : Closet Case Patterns

Sasha Trousers

Kalle Shirt Dress : : Also seen here

Kalle Sleeve Expansion

Clare Coat : : Also seen here and here

 

34 Comments

  • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 12:07 am

    This comment is from the lovely Sheila of http://sheilaephemera.blogspot.ca/

    Sue, those pants are a fabulous length – that is my absolute favourite for showing off any kind of shoe, and a wee bit of ankle (so sexy). I love that shirt, and would steal it right off you! Great work on those cuffs, and that hi-lo rock star hem! That coat is amazing too – such a great fabric!

    Hope you are enjoying this cold, crisp weather!

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 10:45 am

      Hey Sheila! Thanks so much for your comment. I had some technical issues…that seem to be resolved…but I knew I was going to lose your comment in the process of fixing. So…I copied and pasted it back.

      Gotta agree about the appeal of a wee bit of ankle. 🙂

      This weather! SO gorgeous!

  • Reply Sew Sarah Smith December 9, 2017 at 12:40 am

    This is a great post Sue; thank you! I love the cropped length on you. I’m hoping to get mine sewn up in the New Year. And really useful what you had to say aboout the sleeve expansion pack. Sarah x

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 10:47 am

      Thanks Sarah. I think the most time consuming aspect of these trousers is the back welt pockets….always optional.

  • Reply Suzanne December 9, 2017 at 5:42 am

    You’re doing an Apple commercial! Ha ha! Love it! : )

    Of course you look fantastic! Great job!

    Suzanne

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 10:47 am

      Thanks Suzanne. I decided to stop imagining the music playing and to just get real, LOL.

  • Reply PsychicSewerKathleen December 9, 2017 at 7:22 am

    I’m a huge fan of Heather’s too (have you listened to the Love to Sew podcast yet? If not, listen! You’ll love it) and yesterday wore my shortie Ebony and realized I need a LOT more of these in my wardrobe. I bought her ginger jeans pattern, ebook AND course but have yet to make myself a pair mostly because I’m not keen on traditional style of jeans but it was her fitting advice I was after 🙂 Lovely outfit! Sadly the Kalle didn’t work for me – I did an FBA which honestly didn’t work out well for me and every time I see one I love it makes me sad.

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 10:56 am

      Hi Kathleen! I’m pretty new to podcasts….Love to Sew is my first and I kinda binge listened to them {while sewing, of course}. But, I haven’t heard Heather on them yet….soon, I hope!

      I had a chance to pattern test Ebony and declined, mostly because we were soon to be travelling, but I also just wasn’t sure the silhouette was for me. It’s funny…I look at it from time to time and think about purchasing it….because I’m a fan-girl and all…and then I think it has more volume than would suit me. You are seriously swaying me towards the buy!!!

      I bought the Kalle in paper and sometimes I wished I had bought a download. Doing that FBA was tricky for me and I could have used the option to print and reprint at will. Yep…I’m no expert on FBAs and it showed when I was altering this pattern. That being said, my shirt fits quite the way I intended. 🙂

  • Reply Louisa December 9, 2017 at 8:41 am

    You look absolutely adorable as always in your Closet Case outfit! I was kind of tempted by some of the Kalles I’ve seen but now I’m thinking it’s not going to work for my body. If you find a solution for that backsliding issue let me know since I have also experienced that phenomenon on occasion. So annoying!

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 10:59 am

      Thanks Louisa. One of the best things we can do for ourselves is get to know our individual shape…and TO LOVE IT! You, my dear, have a very good understanding and I say follow your pattern drafting instincts. That being said, if you ever want to look at the pattern or my makes, just let me know!

      Whew….not just me with the backsliding! Priscilla has commented about doing a forward shoulder adjustment which I had never heard of….I’m going to check this out further and I’ll let you know.

  • Reply fran December 9, 2017 at 9:23 am

    beautiful and classy

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 10:59 am

      Aw…thanks so much Mom.

  • Reply Nancy Baten December 9, 2017 at 10:02 am

    I only love cropped trousers! Fabulous! Try Flickre!

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 11:00 am

      YAY! Another fan of cropped trousers! Thanks Nancy!

      Flicker! Why I have a Flicker account. I will have to look into that as an option, thank you!

  • Reply Priscilla December 9, 2017 at 10:04 am

    You look like a professional model, seriously! The shirt is awesome. I dig the sleeves and cuffs!

    Shoulder seams sliding back: shouldn’t you just do a forward shoulder adjustment? It’s what I have to do, but only a wee bit, just by increasing the length of the back armhole seam by 1/2 inch and shortening the front by 1/2 inch but leaving the neck as is. Then I fiddle with the set in sleeve to made it sit right because the pattern marks will no longer match up. I still match the underarm seam and just play with everything else and baste first and try on to make sure it doesn’t look wonky. Lordy, I wonder how you’re SUPPOSED to do a forward shoulder adjustment!

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 11:06 am

      Thanks Priscilla!

      A forward shoulder adjustment? Huh…I’ve never heard of this. It’s so funny…I’m very old school sewing and we never made a lot of adjustments in sewing class….probably because I was a closer fit to the patterns than I am now. More and more I’m learning of all this nifty, specific fit adjustments that can be done! When I mentioned about the ‘backsliding’ I was pretty sure it was something that was ‘just me’…know what I mean? But it’s a real thing! Thanks so much for sharing your method.

      One clarification please. By lengthening the back armhole seam and shortening the front….you are doing this at the shoulder and then drawing the line to meet at the neckline edges, yes? Yes…I’m sure that’s what you mean. And I think it will really help me! AWESOME!

      • Reply Priscilla December 22, 2017 at 8:55 am

        Yes, to answer your question. drawn to meet at the neckline edge. I was curious to see if anyone on YouTube had addressed forward shoulder adjustments. Gosh, YES, all sorts of videos. You may want to check one or two of them out.

        • Reply Sue December 22, 2017 at 12:48 pm

          Thanks. Your directions made sense but I will also check out youtube.

  • Reply Melanie December 9, 2017 at 10:06 am

    Whoa – these photos are awesome. Rock star is right! You have really got the moves! The boldness of this outfit is powerful and I love it on you, not that I don’t like patterns too, but this is a whole ‘nother vibe. And looks like you got the “golden hour” photos-wise with such a great backdrop for this look too. Excellent! As for the making part, well, I can’t even.

    • Reply Sue December 9, 2017 at 11:08 am

      Thanks Melanie! Scary isn’t it….the lack of print and pattern….but I REALLY, REALLY love it! Of course, that can all change when I reveal the patterned version that you saw…

      So crazy to think that golden hour is at 3:15 in the afternoon.

  • Reply No Fear of Fashion December 10, 2017 at 12:55 am

    Fab post because everything works. Your amazing sewing skills, THE most perfect trousers, the fun shirt (great quality fabric too), the background, the photos, your poses, the shoes and boots. I love everything. Oh and the hair. Love this hair length on you.
    You are right, all kind of shoes are good with these trousers. Amazing. I even have a slight preference for the boots. Which is strange as I always opt for pumps. You did perfect jobs on all the items. I commented on the coat at the original post. Shame you didn’t show the coat in this post with the altered sleeves. Next time?
    Greetje

    • Reply Sue December 10, 2017 at 10:01 am

      Wow…thanks Greetje! I have been feeling a pull towards the more classic silhouettes…and I know you love them too.

      I was hesitant about the booties, but they have the teeny gap you mentioned in an earlier post {thanks} and the colour goes perfectly with my coat. It was a win!

      When we snapped photos, I didn’t want to put the coat until after, just in case of wrinkling the shirt…which actually has a bit of polyester in it so it’s not too bad…and then. I forgot! This may be a good case for popping a photo onto Instagram.

  • Reply Gillian Whitcombe December 10, 2017 at 7:30 am

    I just want to burst into applause! I love the photos, I love the play on menswear, I love the hat trick! So well done, and you look fabulous!

    • Reply Sue December 10, 2017 at 10:04 am

      WOO HOO….GOAL!

      Thanks Gillian! I think one of the things I love about this look is that it truly was effortless. Major props to Heather!

  • Reply Sue December 11, 2017 at 12:54 am

    You do look effortlessly chic in this ensemble. I am about to try the Sasha trousers so I’m interested in whether they fit me as well as everyone else. Gorgeous look Sue!

    • Reply Sue December 11, 2017 at 8:54 pm

      Thanks Sue!
      I’ve no doubt that you have the skills to make a beautiful pair for yourself. I know we all have to find that sweet spot fit-wise when it comes to trousers….sending you lots of positive ‘fit’ vibes!

  • Reply Helen Wilkinson December 11, 2017 at 11:16 am

    These photos are EVERYTHING! I love the whole look 🙂

    • Reply Sue December 11, 2017 at 8:55 pm

      Aw…thanks Helen.

      This sunny weather makes everything better. Hope you didn’t get stuck in any of that fog that was floating around.

  • Reply Shelley@ForestCityFashionista December 15, 2017 at 3:06 pm

    I love these photos Sue! The golden light is lovely, and it’s fun to see you get down and boogie! I am in such awe of your sewing skills. I’m going to try to re-hem a couple of pairs of pants on my new sewing machine over the holidays. It is so hard to find pants that fit me, it would be ideal if I could make my own but I think that if that ever happens, it will be waaaay down the road.

    • Reply Sue December 18, 2017 at 11:21 am

      Thank you Shelley!
      Speaking of golden…hemming skills are golden. Even when I wasn’t doing any garment sewing for a while there, I was always hemming clothing that I had bought at thrift stores.
      Each one of us has such a unique shape and it’s when making pants that we really acknowledge this. The fitting can be time consuming, but one really does learn a lot about one’s shape, particularly if you’re short waisted or long waisted, and have a round bum or no bum. Well…you probably already know this…that commercially made pants fit a certain body better than others. Until you get to making your own, there are lots of other fun sewing related projects that you can play with.

  • Reply SewingTidbits December 18, 2017 at 8:48 am

    What a gorgeous outfit! I love your pictures too!

    Thank you for your review of the Sasha pants, I love cropped slim pants, so on paper they are exactly what I’m looking for. But I was hoping for a pattern for woven with no stretch… Do you think it would be worth sizing up and giving them a chance?

    • Reply Sue December 18, 2017 at 11:35 am

      Thank you so much!

      I’m of two minds when it comes to tweaking this pattern for a woven without stretch….NO WAY and GO FOR IT, LOL!

      I’ve made two pairs…hoping to blog my second pair soon…one pair had far less stretch than recommended, the other spot on with the pattern specs. This navy pair….not so much stretch, even though it was labeled at something like 5%? I ended up with 3/8″ side seam allowances, which still allowed me to finish the edges with my serger, but just. So, I would think you may need to size up more than a single size, but not necessarily all over…does that make sense? It can be a bit of a gamble, hence the NO WAY.

      Now, on the flip side…this pattern has some similarities to Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans {I believe Heather started with the same block.} And….waaaaay back when the Ginger Jeans were released, I made a non-stretch version of them. I added only to the side seams…quite a generous amount so I had some leeway….and then basted them together. It was a successful make…but my non-stretch Ginger Jeans are not as comfortable as my Morgan Jeans, the pattern that Heather released for those wanting a non-stretch version. There are definitely differences in the design of the garment. You can see my non-stretch Ginger Jeans post here

      I too was on the hunt for a silhouette just like the Sasha Trousers and having no luck until this release. I love the comfort the stretch provides, but I am challenged with finding good quality stretch fabrics that have the ‘right’ amount of stretch. That being said, I reach for these pants over and over BECAUSE they have the stretch. 🙂

      Okay….I was no help, amirite?

  • Reply Carolyn December 28, 2017 at 5:15 pm

    Well, I’m not used to seeing you in plain navy and white! (wink wink) of course you look completely awesome and as rock star as you do in your usual colourful canvas. I, of course, would wear both these pieces a TONNE!

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